The weather had been quite mercurial. The original itinerary
had this gang of intrepid National Youth Achievement Award students beginning
with an open-water crossing from Ko Sire (Phuket) to Ko Yao Yai. Having
just spent the previous two weeks in the bay and seeing the weather produce
storms, strong winds and lightning, I asked Mike Gibby (teacher, tour
leader, all-around good guy) if he minded modifying the plans. He was
very open as this was a potential safety issue.
So, the nine students, three teachers and three PaddleAsia
guides headed off to Ko Yao Noi. We launched at Laem Sai Beach and paddled
the short distance to Ko Nok (Bird Island). Off in the distance, the skies
were darkening. The kids would take turns being the group leader and I
walked over to Ben (student) and talked about what was happening.
While we were having lunch, the calm day became tainted
with wind. Launching from the lee side of the sandy point on Ko Nok, we
tightened our spray decks (spray skirts if you’re an American) and
headed off to Ko Pak Bia.
The quartering seas and tail wind played havoc with the
kayaks. Students were struggling to paddle in a straight line and in spite
of the double kayaks having rudders, I requested that they didn’t
put them down so as to help them learn how to paddle without resorting
to using such ‘tools’. All along the way the adults (teachers
and guides) supported various students with helpful hints on technique.
You could see frustration in some of their faces, but the persevered.
Sweep and rudder strokes were amended and fine tuned.
The storm that was brewing to the South didn’t
materialize; the storm to the Northeast didn’t either. We all relaxed
in the warm water of Ko Pak Bia. Some small crabs were found clinging
to some floating debris. Several students let the crabs climb onto their
hands. A connection was made. The crabs were released shortly thereafter.
Changing
leaders, we decided to head to the Holiday Resort instead of the camping
beach that is further north on Ko Yao Noi. The change was made for two
reasons: another storm was manifesting itself and heading towards us and
the thought of setting up camp in a storm wasn’t very appealing.
The kids had done wonderfully in adverse conditions and the Holiday Resort
offered a big empty restaurant where they could both set up their tents
and do the cooking. In addition, we adults got to stay in a bungalow with
hot showers and cable TV. It didn’t take much convincing to persuade
the teachers to choose this option. We were all happy campers.
Back to the paddle, we couldn’t see Ko Yao Noi.
The storm was coming due west and the big island disappeared in the mist.
In addition, there was a very stiff headwind trying to keep our progress
to a minimum. Again, the kids buckled down and paddled through the storm.
We were all becoming rapidly impressed with this group of youngsters…
and this was just a sign of things to come. All in all, we paddled 13
Nautical Miles! How’s that for a big first day!
As part of the National Youth Achievement Award, students
are expected to do their own cooking. Poo, our charming new Bangkok Admin
office manager, Moo and the guides instructed them on how to make Gang
Keow Wan Gai (Sweet Green Chicken Curry) and a couple of other tasty Thai
dishes. The kids jumped at the opportunity to chop veggies and learn the
recipe. Their hard work paid off with a delicious dinner.
Day #2 - 12 Nautical Miles
Up with the sun, the kids were packed and ready by the
time when most students would have just been getting their act together.
Rushing to get my act together, I met them on the beach in front of the
Holiday Resort while Jason (teacher) was running through some warm-up
exercises with them. Whew, I didn’t hold them up.
Paddling
up the eastern side of Ko Yao Noi, the group really impressed us with
how well they were staying together. We didn’t have to stop a regroup
and we moved at a very noble pace. Tour leader for this leg, Ana, chose
the beach on Ko Kudu Yai as the lunch spot. A lovely beach that is being
assaulted by lazy speedboat tourists, Ko Kudu Yai is an island destined
for ruining. Yet another fine beach falls prey to the sting of mass tourism,
still, if you get there when no one else is there it’s a nice bay
and beach.
After Kudu Yai, we headed over to Ko Roi to explore the
cave and hong. I filled the kids in on the importance of a healthy mangrove
population and the relationship between mangrove, coral, pelagic fish
species, etc.
Heading south towards Ko Boi Yai, we were slapped in
the face by sudden Force Four seas (white caps and strong wind), so we
shot over to Ko Yao Yai to a small beach to wait out the front. The seas
did calm down, but we were still faced with at least Force Three seas.
Halfway to our camp, I heard one of the girls getting sick. She had mild
sea sickness, but instead of hopping in the longtail escort boat, she
was determined to carry on. I was impressed. She had every right to bail
out, but didn’t want any part of that. Not a whimper was heard from
her! She even picked up the pace!
Arriving at near sunset, the gang quickly set up camp.
My team got the dinner started. These kids had fought through very, very
tough conditions and we all (teachers and guides) weren’t about
to make them cook. They put in a big day of activity, starting very early
and lasting all day. My guys and gals got the food started and the kids
still came to help a bit. We all slept well on this night.
Day #3 – 8 Nautical
Miles
Ah,
the last day and we were all still eager to get in the boats and paddle.
I can’t truly express my utter contentment with this wonderful group
of youngsters. If all school groups were this easy, I’d have a very
easy life. We never had to ask them do keep their shoes on while on the
beaches or while swimming (a constant problem with some school kids),
nor did we have to stop a lot to keep the group together. They were all
around sixteen years-old, yet more mature than some adults (like me sometimes!).
The teaches and I decided to give them an easy day…
after all, they did the equivalent of two days’ worth of paddling
on each of the previous days. They had all satisfied (understatement)
the criteria set forth by the NYAA scheme.
We set off to circumnavigate Ko Boi Yai. I had actually
never done this in all of my sixteen years of paddling in the bay. I didn’t
think it was worth doing, but I was proven wrong. The island is covered
with thick verdant jungle. We saw White-bellied Sea Eagles, Brahminy Kites,
a lone Crested Serpent Eagle and a troop of Crab-eating Macaque monkeys.
And, of course, the wind was blowing strongly against us for the first
half of the paddle around. Why would we expect anything else?
We rounded the far point and actually had calm seas.
What a lovely island. I need to do some more exploring as I think it would
be fun to hike from one end to the other of this ‘hotdog-shaped’
island. Anyway, we made it back to the previous night’s campsite
and ate some banana bread and Oreos.
The home stretch was waiting for us. This time, however,
we actually had a nice tail wind and following current. We were all somewhat
relieved, though I’m sure if conditions were otherwise these kids
would have carried on.
Instead of having them cook their lunch, I felt compelled
to buy them a nice lunch at one of Ko Yao Noi’s best restaurants.
To say that they earned it would be a gross understatement.
Having met and greatly exceeded our wildest expectations
for a group of students of this age, we can’t wait for another United
World College gang of determined and intrepid adventurers.

Special
thanks to Mr. Mike Gibby (hand in the air) for organizing this wonderful
trip.